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  • Trousers

    Trousers (British English), slacks, or pants (AmericanCanadian and Australian English) are an item of clothing worn from the waist to anywhere between the knees and the ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth extending across both legs as in robesskirtsdresses and kiltsShorts are similar to trousers, but with legs that come down only to around the area of the knee, higher or lower depending on the style of the garment. To distinguish them from shorts, trousers may be called “long trousers” in certain contexts such as school uniform, where tailored shorts may be called “short trousers” in the UK.

    The oldest known trousers, dating to the period between the thirteenth and the tenth centuries BC, were found at the Yanghai cemetery in TurpanXinjiang (Tocharia), in present-day western China.[1][2] Made of wool, the trousers had straight legs and wide crotches and were likely made for horseback riding.[3][4] A pair of trouser-like leggings dating back to 3350 and 3105 BC were found in the Austria–Italy border worn by Ötzi. In most of Europe, trousers have been worn since ancient times and throughout the Medieval period, becoming the most common form of lower-body clothing for adult males in the modern world. Breeches were worn instead of trousers in early modern Europe by some men in higher classes of society. Distinctive formal trousers are traditionally worn with formal and semi-formal day attire. Since the mid-twentieth century, trousers have increasingly been worn by women as well.

    Jeans, made of denim, are a form of trousers for casual wear widely worn all over the world by people of all genders. Shorts are often preferred in hot weather or for some sports and also often by children and adolescents. Trousers are worn on the hips or waist and are often held up by buttons, elastic, a belt or suspenders (braces). Unless elastic, and especially for men, trousers usually provide a zippered or buttoned fly. Jeans usually feature side and rear pockets with pocket openings placed slightly below the waist band. It is also possible for trousers to provide cargo pockets further down the legs.

    Maintenance of fit is more challenging for trousers than for some other garments. Leg-length can be adjusted with a hem, which helps to retain fit during the adolescent and early adulthood growth years. Tailoring adjustment of girth to accommodate weight gain or weight loss is relatively limited, and otherwise serviceable trousers might need to be replaced after a significant change in body composition. Higher-quality trousers often have extra fabric included in the centre-back seam allowance, so the waist can be let out further.

    Terminology

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    “Slacks” redirects here. For other uses, see Slack (disambiguation) and Slacks (disambiguation).

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    Silk trousers, Tang dynasty

    In Scotland, a type of tartan trousers traditionally worn by Highlanders as an alternative to the Great Plaid and its predecessors is called trews or in the original Gaelic triubhas. This is the source of the English word trousers. Trews are still sometimes worn instead of the kilt at ceilidhs, weddings etc. Trousers are also known as breeks in Scots, the cognate of breeches. The item of clothing worn under trousers is called pants. The standard English form trousers is also used, but it is sometimes pronounced in a manner approximately represented by [ˈtruːzɨrz], as Scots did not completely undergo the Great Vowel Shift, and thus retains the vowel sound of the Gaelic triubhas, from which the word originates.[5]

    In North America, Australia and South Africa,[6] pants is the general category term, whereas trousers (sometimes slacks in Australia and North America) often refers more specifically to tailored garments with a waistband, belt-loops, and a fly-front. In these dialects, elastic-waist knitted garments would be called pants, but not trousers (or slacks).[citation needed]

    North Americans call undergarments underwearunderpantsundies, or panties (the last are women’s garments specifically) to distinguish them from other pants that are worn on the outside. The term drawers normally refers to undergarments, but in some dialects, may be found as a synonym for breeches, that is, trousers. In these dialects, the term underdrawers is used for undergarments. Many North Americans refer to their underpants by their type, such as boxers or briefs.[citation needed]

    In Australia, men’s underwear also has various informal terms including under-dacksundiesdacks or jocks. In New Zealand, men’s underwear is known informally as undies or dacks.[citation needed]

    In India, underwear is also referred to as innerwear.[citation needed]

    The words trouser (or pant) instead of trousers (or pants) is sometimes used in the tailoring and fashion industries as a generic term, for instance when discussing styles, such as “a flared trouser”, rather than as a specific item. The words trousers and pants are pluralia tantum, nouns that generally only appear in plural form—much like the words scissors and tongs, and as such pair of trousers is the usual correct form. However, the singular form is used in some compound words, such as trouser-legtrouser-press and trouser-bottoms.[7]

    Jeans are trousers typically made from denim or dungaree cloth. In North America skin-tight leggings are commonly referred to as tights.[citation needed]

    Types

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    See also: Category:Trousers and shorts

    There are several different main types of pants and trousers, such as dress pantsjeanskhakischinosleggingsoveralls, and sweatpants. They can also be classified by fit, fabric, and other features. There is apparently no universal, overarching classification.[citation needed]

    History

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    Roman Bronze Statuette of a Suebian wearing trousers. First to third century AD

    Prehistory

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    Reconstruction of Ötzi the Iceman who lived between 3350 and 3105 BC in the Ötztal Alps (Austria–Italy border) and he wore leggings that look like trousers

    There is some evidence, from figurative art, of trousers being worn in the Upper Paleolithic, as seen on the figurines found at the Siberian sites of Mal’ta and Buret’.[8] Fabrics and technology for their construction are fragile and disintegrate easily, so often are not among artefacts discovered in archaeological sites. The oldest known trousers were found at the Yanghai cemetery, extracted from mummies in TurpanXinjiang, western China, belonging to the people of the Tarim Basin;[2] dated to the period between the thirteenth and the tenth century BC and made of wool, the trousers had straight legs and wide crotches, and were likely made for horseback riding.[3][4]

    Antiquity

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    Scythian wearing trousers

    Trousers enter recorded history in the sixth century BC, on the rock carvings and artworks of Persepolis,[9][self-published source?] and with the appearance of horse-riding Eurasian nomads in Greek ethnography. At this time, Iranian peoples such as ScythiansSarmatiansSogdians and Bactrians among others, along with Armenians and Eastern and Central Asian peoples such as the Xiongnu/Hunnu, are known to have worn trousers.[10][11] Trousers are believed to have been worn by people of any gender among these early users.[12]

    The ancient Greeks used the term ἀναξυρίδες (anaxyrides) for the trousers worn by Eastern nations[13] and σαράβαρα (sarabara) for the loose trousers worn by the Scythians.[14] However, they did not wear trousers since they thought them ridiculous,[15][16] using the word θύλακοι (thulakoi), pl. of θύλακος (thulakos) ‘sack’, as a slang term for the loose trousers of Persians and other Middle Easterners.[17]

    Republican Rome viewed the draped clothing of Greek and Minoan (Cretan) culture as an emblem of civilization and disdained trousers as the mark of barbarians.[18] As the Roman Empire expanded beyond the Mediterranean basin, however, the greater warmth provided by trousers led to their adoption.[19] Two types of trousers eventually saw widespread use in Rome: the feminalia, which fit snugly and usually fell to knee length or mid-calf length,[20] and the braccae, loose-fitting trousers that were closed at the ankles.[21] Both garments were adopted originally from the Celts of Europe, although later familiarity with the Persian Near East and the Germanic peoples increased acceptance. Feminalia and braccae both began use as military garments, spreading to civilian dress later, and were eventually made in a variety of materials, including leather, wool, cotton and silk.[22]

    Medieval Europe

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    Trousers of various designs were worn throughout the Middle Ages in Europe, especially by men. Loose-fitting trousers were worn in Byzantium under long tunics,[23] and were worn by many tribes, such as the Germanic tribes that migrated to the Western Roman Empire in Late Antiquity and the Early Middle Ages, as evidenced by both artistic sources and such relics as the fourth-century costumes recovered from the Thorsberg peat bog (see illustration).[24] Trousers in this period, generally called braies, varied in length and were often closed at the cuff or even had attached foot coverings, although open-legged pants were also seen.[25]

    Psalter (the ‘Shaftesbury Psalter’) with calendar and prayers, England, second quarter of the twelfth century

    By the eighth century there is evidence of the wearing in Europe of two layers of trousers, especially among upper-class males.[26] The under layer is today referred to by costume historians as drawers, although that usage did not emerge until the late sixteenth century. Over the drawers were worn trousers of wool or linen, which in the tenth century began to be referred to as breeches in many places. Tightness of fit and length of leg varied by period, class, and geography. (Open legged trousers can be seen on the Norman soldiers of the Bayeux Tapestry.)[27]

    Although Charlemagne (742–814) is recorded to have habitually worn trousers, donning the Byzantine tunic only for ceremonial occasions,[28][29] the influence of the Roman past and the example of Byzantium led to the increasing use of long tunics by men, hiding most of the trousers from view and eventually rendering them an undergarment for many. As undergarments, these trousers became briefer or longer as the length of the various medieval outer garments changed, and were met by, and usually attached to, another garment variously called hose or stockings.[citation needed]

    In the fourteenth century it became common among the men of the noble and knightly classes to connect the hose directly to their pourpoints[30] (the padded under jacket worn with armoured breastplates that would later evolve into the doublet) rather than to their drawers. In the fifteenth century, rising hemlines led to ever briefer drawers[31] until they were dispensed with altogether by the most fashionable elites who joined their skin-tight hose back into trousers.[32] These trousers, which we would today call tights but which were still called hose or sometimes joined hose at the time, emerged late in the fifteenth century and were conspicuous by their open crotch which was covered by an independently fastening front panel, the codpiece. The exposure of the hose to the waist was consistent with fifteenth-century trends, which also brought the pourpoint/doublet and the shirt, previously undergarments, into view,[33] but the most revealing of these fashions were only ever adopted at court and not by the general population.[citation needed]

    Men’s clothes in Hungary in the fifteenth century consisted of a shirt and trousers as underwear, and a dolman worn over them, as well as a short fur-lined or sheepskin coat. Hungarians generally wore simple trousers, only their colour being unusual; the dolman covered the greater part of the trousers.[34]

    Europe before the 20th century

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    Around the turn of the sixteenth century it became conventional to separate hose into two pieces, one from the waist to the crotch which fastened around the top of the legs, called trunk hose, and the other running beneath it to the foot. The trunk hose soon reached down the thigh to fasten below the knee and were now usually called “breeches” to distinguish them from the lower-leg coverings still called hose or, sometimes stockings. By the end of the sixteenth century, the codpiece had also been incorporated into breeches which featured a fly or fall front opening.[citation needed]

    As a modernization measure, Tsar Peter the Great of Russia issued a decree in 1701 commanding every Russian man, other than clergy and peasant farmers, to wear trousers.[35]

    Western dress shall be worn by all the boyars, members of our councils and of our court…gentry of Moscow, secretaries…provincial gentry, gosti,[3] government officials, streltsy,[4] members of the guilds purveying for our household, citizens of Moscow of all ranks, and residents of provincial cities…excepting the clergy and peasant tillers of the soil. The upper dress shall be of French or Saxon cut, and the lower dress…–waistcoat, trousers, boots, shoes, and hats–shall be of the German type

    During the French Revolution of 1789 and following, many male citizens of France adopted a working-class costume including ankle-length trousers, or pantaloons (named from a Commedia dell’Arte character named Pantalone)[36] in place of the aristocratic knee-breeches (culottes). (Compare sans-culottes.) The new garment of the revolutionaries differed from that of the ancien regime upper classes in three ways:[citation needed]

    • it was loose where the style for breeches had most recently been form-fitting
    • it was ankle length where breeches had generally been knee-length for more than two centuries
    • they were open at the bottom while breeches were fastened

    Pantaloons became fashionable in early nineteenth-century England and the Regency era. The style was introduced by Beau Brummell (1778–1840)[37][38][39] and by mid-century had supplanted breeches as fashionable street-wear.[40] At this point, even knee-length pants adopted the open bottoms of trousers (see shorts) and were worn by young boys, for sports, and in tropical climates. Breeches proper have survived into the twenty-first century as court dress, and also in baggy mid-calf (or three-quarter length) versions known as plus-fours or knickers worn for active sports and by young schoolboys. Types of breeches are also still worn today by baseball and American football players, and by equestrians.[citation needed]

    Sailors may[original research?] have played a role in the worldwide dissemination of trousers as a fashion. In the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, sailors wore baggy trousers known as galligaskins. Sailors also pioneered the wearing of jeans – trousers made of denim.[41] These became more popular in the late nineteenth century in the American West because of their ruggedness and durability.[citation needed]

    Starting around the mid-nineteenth century, Wigan pit-brow women scandalized Victorian society by wearing trousers for their work at the local coal mines. They wore skirts over their trousers and rolled them up to their waists to keep them out of the way. Although pit-brow lasses worked above ground at the pit-head, their task of sorting and shovelling coal involved hard manual labour, so wearing the usual long skirts of the time would have greatly hindered their movements.[citation needed]

    Medieval Korea

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    Main article: hanbok

    The Korean word for trousers, baji (originally pajibaji) first appears in recorded history around the turn of the fifteenth century, but pants may have been in use by Korean society for some time. From at least this time pants were worn by both sexes in Korea. Men wore trousers either as outer garments or beneath skirts, while it was unusual for adult women to wear their pants (termed sokgot) without a covering skirt. As in Europe, a wide variety of styles came to define regions, time periods and age and gender groups, from the unlined gouei to the padded sombaji.[42]

    Women wearing trousers

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    Main article: Trousers as women’s clothing

    See also: the Laws section below.

    Amazon wearing trousers and carrying a shield with an attached patterned cloth and a quiver. Ancient Greek Attic white-ground alabastron, c. 470 BC, British Museum, London

    In Western society, it was Eastern culture that inspired French designer Paul Poiret (1879–1944) to be one of the first to design pants for women. In 1913, Poiret created loose-fitting, wide-leg trousers for women called harem pants, which were based on the costumes of the popular ballet Sheherazade. Written by Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov in 1888, Sheherazade was based on a collection of legends from the Middle East called 1001 Arabian Nights.[43]

    In the early twentieth century, women air pilots and other working women often wore trousers. Frequent photographs from the 1930s of actresses Marlene Dietrich and Katharine Hepburn in trousers helped make trousers acceptable for women. During World War II, women employed in factories or doing other “men’s work” on war service wore trousers when the job demanded it. In the post-war era, trousers became acceptable casual wear for gardening, the beach, and other leisure pursuits. In Britain during World War II the rationing of clothing prompted women to wear their husbands’ civilian clothes, including trousers, to work while the men were serving in the armed forces. This was partly because they were seen as practical for work, but also so that women could keep their clothing allowance for other uses. As this practice of wearing trousers became more widespread and as the men’s clothing wore out, replacements were needed. By the summer of 1944, it was reported that sales of women’s trousers were five times more than the previous year.[44]

    Women wearing slacks, Sydney, 1946

    In 1919, Luisa Capetillo challenged mainstream society by becoming the first woman in Puerto Rico to wear trousers in public. Capetillo was sent to jail for what was considered to be a crime, but the charges were later dropped.[citation needed]

    In the 1960s, André Courrèges introduced long trousers for women as a fashion item, leading to the era of the pantsuit and designer jeans and the gradual erosion of social prohibitions against girls and women wearing trousers in schools, the workplace and in fine restaurants.[citation needed]

    In 1969, Rep. Charlotte Reid (R-Ill.) became the first woman to wear trousers in the US Congress.[45]

    Pat Nixon was the first American First Lady to wear trousers in public.[46]

    In 1989, California state senator Rebecca Morgan became the first woman to wear trousers in a US state senate.[47]

    Hillary Clinton was the first woman to wear trousers in an official American First Lady portrait.[48]

    Women were not allowed to wear trousers on the US Senate floor until 1993.[49][50] In 1993, Senators Barbara Mikulski and Carol Moseley Braun wore trousers onto the floor in defiance of the rule, and female support staff followed soon after; the rule was amended later that year by Senate Sergeant-at-Arms Martha Pope to allow women to wear trousers on the floor so long as they also wore a jacket.[49][50]

    In Malawi women were not legally allowed to wear trousers under President Kamuzu Banda‘s rule until 1994.[51] This law was introduced in 1965.[52]

    Since 2004 the International Skating Union has allowed women to wear trousers instead of skirts in ice-skating competitions.[53]

    In 2009, journalist Lubna Hussein was fined the equivalent of $200 when a court found her guilty of violating Sudan’s decency laws by wearing trousers.[54]

    In 2012 the Royal Canadian Mounted Police began to allow women to wear trousers and boots with all their formal uniforms.[55]

    In 2012 and 2013, some Mormon women participated in “Wear Pants to Church Day”, in which they wore trousers to church instead of the customary dresses to encourage gender equality within the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints.[56][57] More than one thousand women participated in 2012.[57]

    In 2013, Turkey’s parliament ended a ban on women lawmakers wearing trousers in its assembly.[58]

    Also in 2013, an old bylaw requiring women in Paris, France to ask permission from city authorities before “dressing as men”, including wearing trousers (with exceptions for those “holding a bicycle handlebar or the reins of a horse”) was declared officially revoked by France’s Women’s Rights Minister, Najat Vallaud-Belkacem.[59] The bylaw was originally intended to prevent women from wearing the pantalons fashionable with Parisian rebels in the French Revolution.[59]

    In 2014, an Indian family court in Mumbai ruled that a husband objecting to his wife wearing a kurta and jeans and forcing her to wear a sari amounts to cruelty inflicted by the husband and can be a ground to seek divorce.[60] The wife was thus granted a divorce on the ground of cruelty as defined under section 27(1)(d) of the Special Marriage Act, 1954.[60]

    Until 2016 some female crew members on British Airways were required to wear British Airways’ standard “ambassador” uniform, which has not traditionally included trousers.[61]

    In 2017, The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints announced that its female employees could wear “professional pantsuits and dress slacks” while at work; dresses and skirts had previously been required.[62] In 2018 it was announced that female missionaries of that church could wear dress slacks except when attending the temple and during Sunday worship services, baptismal services, and mission leadership and zone conferences.[63]

    In 2019, Virgin Atlantic began to allow its female flight attendants to wear trousers.[64]

    Parts of trousers

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    Parts of men’s trousers

    Pleats

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    Pleats are located just below the waistband on the front typify many styles of formal and casual trousers, including suit trousers and khakis. There may be one, two, three, or no pleats, which may face either direction. When the pleats open toward the pockets they are called reverse pleats (typical of most trousers today) and when they open toward the fly they are known as forward pleats.[65]

    Pockets

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    Further information: Pocket and Trousers as women’s clothing § Pockets

    In modern trousers, men’s models generally have pockets for carrying small items such as wallets, keys or mobile phones, but women’s trousers often do not – and sometimes have what are called Potemkin pockets, a fake slit sewn shut.[66] If there are pockets, they are often much smaller than in men’s clothes.[66] In 2018, journalists at The Pudding found less than half of women’s front pockets could fit a thin wallet, let alone a handheld phone and keys.[66][67] ‘On average, the pockets in women’s jeans are 48% shorter and 6.5% narrower than men’s pockets.’[67] This gender difference is usually explained by diverging priorities; as French fashion designer Christian Dior allegedly said in 1954: ‘Men have pockets to keep things in, women for decoration.’[67]

    Cuffs/Bottom hem

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    Trouser-makers can finish the legs by hemming the bottom to prevent fraying. Trousers with turn-ups (cuffs in American English), after hemming, are rolled outward and sometimes pressed or stitched into place.[65]

    Fly

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    Main article: Fly (clothing)

    A fly is a covering over an opening join concealing the mechanism, such as a zippervelcro, or buttons, used to join the opening. In trousers, this is most commonly an opening covering the groin, which makes the pants easier to put on or take off. The opening also allows men to urinate without lowering their trousers.[citation needed]

    Trousers have varied historically in whether or not they have a fly. Originally, hose did not cover the area between the legs. This was instead covered by a doublet or by a codpiece. When breeches were worn, during the Regency period for example, they were fall-fronted (or broad fall). Later, after trousers (pantaloons) were invented, the fly-front (split fall) emerged.[68] The panelled front returned as a sporting option, such as in riding breeches, but is now hardly ever used, a fly being by far the most common fastening.[69] Most flies now use a zipper, though button-fly pants continue to be available.[65]

    Trouser support

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    At present, most trousers are held up through the assistance of a belt which is passed through the belt loops on the waistband of the trousers. However, this was traditionally a style acceptable only for casual trousers and work trousers; suit trousers and formal trousers were suspended by the use of braces (suspenders in American English) attached to buttons located on the interior or exterior of the waistband. Today, this remains the preferred method of trouser support amongst adherents of classical British tailoring. Many men claim this method is more effective and more comfortable because it requires no cinching of the waist or periodic adjustment.[citation needed]

    Society

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    In modern Western society, males customarily wear trousers and not skirts or dresses. There are exceptions, however, such as the ceremonial Scottish kilt and Greek fustanella, as well as robes or robe-like clothing such as the cassocks of clergy and the academic robes, both rarely worn today in daily use. (See also Men’s skirts.)

    Convertible Ventilated Trousers shown with one leg cover removed

    Among certain groups, low-rise, baggy trousers exposing underwear became fashionable; for example, among skaters and in 1990s hip hop fashion. This fashion is called sagging or, alternatively, “busting slack”.[70]

    Cut-offs are homemade shorts made by cutting the legs off trousers, usually after holes have been worn in fabric around the knees. This extends the useful life of the trousers. The remaining leg fabric may be hemmed or left to fray after being cut.[citation needed]

    Religion

    [edit]

    Based on Deuteronomy 22:5 in the Bible (“The woman shall not wear that which pertaineth unto a man”), some groups, including the AmishHutterites, some Mennonites, some Baptists, a few Church of Christ groups, and most Orthodox Jews, believe that women should not wear trousers. These groups permit women to wear underpants as long as they are hidden.[citation needed] By contrast, many Muslim sects approve of pants as they are considered more modest than any skirt that is shorter than ankle length. However, some mosques require ankle length trousers for both Muslims and non-Muslims on the premises.[71]

    The Catholic Pope Nicholas I approved of both men and women wearing pants. In 866, he wrote in response to the Bulgar Kahn St Boris the Baptiser, “For whether you or your women wear or do not wear pants neither impedes your salvation nor leads to any increase of your virtue.” He then proceeded to expound the virtue of wearing the “spiritual pants” in the form of a temperate life while restraining disordered passions.[72]

    Laws

    [edit]

    See also: Trousers as women’s clothing § Changing norms

    France

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    In 2013, a law requiring women in Paris to ask permission from city authorities before “dressing as men”, including wearing trousers (with exceptions for those “holding a bicycle handlebar or the reins of a horse”) was declared officially revoked by France’s Women’s Rights Minister, Najat Vallaud-Belkacem.[59] The bylaw was originally intended to prevent women from wearing the pantalons fashionable with Parisian rebels in the French Revolution.[59]

    India

    [edit]

    In 2014, an Indian family court in Mumbai ruled that a husband objecting to his wife wearing a kurta and jeans and forcing her to wear a sari amounts to cruelty inflicted by the husband and can be a ground to seek divorce.[60] The wife was thus granted a divorce on the ground of cruelty as defined under section 27(1)(d) of Special Marriage Act, 1954.[60]

    Italy

    [edit]

    In Rome in 1992, a 45-year-old driving instructor was accused of rape. When he picked up an 18-year-old for her first driving lesson, he allegedly raped her for an hour, then told her that if she was to tell anyone he would kill her. Later that night she told her parents and her parents agreed to help her press charges. While the alleged rapist was convicted and sentenced, the Supreme Court of Cassation overturned the conviction in 1998 because the victim wore tight jeans. It was argued that she must have necessarily have had to help her attacker remove her jeans, thus making the act consensual (“because the victim wore very, very tight jeans, she had to help him remove them…and by removing the jeans…it was no longer rape but consensual sex”). The court stated in its decision “it is a fact of common experience that it is nearly impossible to slip off tight jeans even partly without the active collaboration of the person who is wearing them.”[73] This ruling sparked widespread feminist protest. The day after the decision, women in the Italian Parliament protested by wearing jeans and holding placards that read “Jeans: An Alibi for Rape”. As a sign of support, the California Senate and Assembly followed suit. Soon Patricia Giggans, executive director of the Los Angeles Commission on Assaults Against Women, (now Peace Over Violence) made Denim Day an annual event. As of 2011 at least 20 U.S. states officially recognize Denim Day in April. Wearing jeans on this day, 22 April, has become an international symbol of protest.[citation needed] In 2008 the Supreme Court of Cassation overturned the ruling, so there is no longer a “denim” defense to the charge of rape.[74]

    Malawi

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    In Malawi, women were not legally allowed to wear trousers under President Kamuzu Banda‘s rule until 1994.[51] This law was introduced in 1965.[52]

    Puerto Rico

    [edit]

    In 1919, Luisa Capetillo challenged mainstream society by becoming the first woman in Puerto Rico to wear trousers in public. Capetillo was sent to jail for what was then considered to be a crime, but, the judge later dropped the charges against her.[citation needed]

    Turkey

    [edit]

    In 2013, Turkey’s parliament ended a ban on women lawmakers wearing trousers in its assembly.[58]

    Sudan

    [edit]

    In Sudan, Article 152 of the Memorandum to the 1991 Penal Code prohibits the wearing of “obscene outfits” in public. This law has been used to arrest and prosecute women wearing trousers. Thirteen women including journalist Lubna al-Hussein were arrested in Khartoum in July 2009 for wearing trousers; ten of the women pleaded guilty and were flogged with ten lashes and fined 250 Sudanese pounds apiece. Lubna al-Hussein considers herself a good Muslim and asserts “Islam does not say whether a woman can wear trousers or not. I’m not afraid of being flogged. It doesn’t hurt. But it is insulting.” She was eventually found guilty and fined the equivalent of $200 rather than being flogged.[54]

    United States

    [edit]

    In May 2004, in LouisianaDemocrat and state legislator Derrick Shepherd proposed a bill that would make it a crime to appear in public wearing trousers below the waist and thereby exposing one’s skin or “intimate clothing”.[75] The Louisiana bill did not pass.[citation needed]

    In February 2005, Virginia legislators tried to pass a similar law that would have made punishable by a $50 fine “any person who, while in a public place, intentionally wears and displays his below-waist undergarments, intended to cover a person’s intimate parts, in a lewd or indecent manner”. (It is not clear whether, with the same coverage by the trousers, exposing underwear was considered worse than exposing bare skin, or whether the latter was already covered by another law.) The law passed in the Virginia House of Delegates. However, various criticisms to it arose. For example, newspaper columnists and radio talk show hosts consistently said that since most people that would be penalized under the law would be young African-American men, the law would thus be a form of racial discrimination. Virginia’s state senators voted against passing the law.[76][77]

    In California, Government Code Section 12947.5 (part of the California Fair Employment and Housing Act (FEHA)) expressly protects the right to wear pants.[78] Thus, the standard California FEHA discrimination complaint form includes an option for “denied the right to wear pants”.[79]

  • Jeans

    Jeans are a type of trousers made from denim or dungaree cloth. Often the term “jeans” refers to a particular style of trousers, called “blue jeans”, with the addition of copper pocket rivets added by Jacob W. Davis in 1871[1] and patented by Davis and Levi Strauss on May 20, 1873. Prior to the patent, the term “blue jeans” had been long in use for various garments (including trousers, overalls, and coats), constructed from blue-colored denim.[2]

    Originally designed for miners, modern jeans were popularized as casual wear by Marlon Brando and James Dean in their 1950s films, particularly The Wild One and Rebel Without a Cause,[3] leading to the fabric becoming a symbol of rebellion among teenagers, especially members of the greaser subculture. From the 1960s onwards, jeans became common among various youth subcultures and subsequently young members of the general population. Nowadays, they are one of the most popular types of trousers in Western culture. Historic brands include Levi’sLee, and Wrangler.

    History

    [edit]

    Fabric

    [edit]

    A traditional women’s Genoese dress in “blue jeans” (1890s). Palazzo Spinola di PellicceriaGenoa, Italy.

    Research on the trade of jean fabric shows that it emerged in the cities of Genoa, Italy, and Nîmes, France. Gênes, the French word for Genoa, might be the origin of the word “jeans“. In Nîmes, weavers tried to reproduce jean fabric but instead developed a similar twill fabric that became known as denim, “de Nîmes”, meaning “from Nîmes”. Genoa’s jeans fabric was a fustian textile of “medium quality and of reasonable cost”, very similar to cotton corduroy for which Genoa was famous, and was “used for work clothes in general”. The Genoese navy equipped its sailors with jeans, as they needed a fabric that could be worn wet or dry.[4][5] Nîmes’s “denim” was coarser, considered higher quality, and was used “for over garments such as smocks or overalls”.[6]: 23  In 1576, a quantity of “jean fustians” arrived into the port of Barnstaple on a vessel from Bristol.[7] Nearly all indigo, needed for dyeing, came from indigo bush plantations in India until the late 19th century. It was replaced by indigo synthesis methods developed in Germany.[8]

    Copper rivets for reinforcing pockets are a characteristic feature of blue jeans.

    By the 17th century, jean was a crucial textile for working-class people in Northern Italy. This is seen in a series of genre paintings from around the 17th century attributed to an artist now referred to as the Master of the Blue Jeans.[6]: 10  The ten paintings depict impoverished scenes with lower-class figures wearing a fabric that looks like denim. The fabric would have been Genoese jean, which was cheaper. Genre painting came to prominence in the late 16th century, and the non-nobility subject matter in all ten paintings places them among others that portray similar scenes.[9]

    Dungaree was mentioned for the first time in the 17th century, when it was referred to as cheap, coarse thick cotton cloth, often colored blue but sometimes white, worn by impoverished people in what was then a region of Bombay, India a dockside village called Dongri. This cloth was “dungri” in Hindi. Dungri was exported to England and used for manufacturing of cheap, robust working clothes. In English, the word “dungri” became pronounced as “dungaree”.[10][relevant?]

    Rivets

    [edit]

    Jacob Davis

    Levi Strauss

    The term jeans appears first in 1795, when a Swiss banker by the name Jean-Gabriel Eynard and his brother Jacques went to Genoa and both were soon heading a flourishing commercial concern. In 1800 Massena‘s troops entered the town and Jean-Gabriel was entrusted with their supply. In particular he furnished them with uniforms cut from blue cloth called “bleu de Genes” whence later derives the famous garment known worldwide as “blue jeans”.[11]

    Levi Strauss, as a young man in 1851, went from Germany to New York to join his older brothers who ran a goods store. In 1853, he moved to San Francisco to open his own dry goods business. Jacob Davis was a tailor who often bought bolts of cloth from the Levi Strauss & Co. wholesale house. In 1872, Davis wrote to Strauss asking to partner with him to patent and sell clothing reinforced with rivets.[12] The copper rivets were to reinforce the points of stress, such as pocket corners and at the bottom of the button fly. Strauss accepted Davis’s offer,[13] and the two men received US patent No. 139,121 for an “Improvement in Fastening Pocket-Openings” on May 20, 1873.[14]

    The classic label for Levi 501 jeans

    Davis and Strauss experimented with different fabrics. An early attempt was brown cotton duck, a bottom-weight fabric.[a] Finding denim a more suitable material for work-pants, they began using it to manufacture their riveted pants. The denim used was produced by an American manufacturer. Popular legend incorrectly states that it was imported from Nîmes. A popular myth is that Strauss initially sold brown canvas pants to miners, later dyed them blue, turned to using denim, and only after Davis wrote to him, added rivets.[12]

    Initially, Strauss’s jeans were simply sturdy trousers worn by factory workers, miners, farmers, and cattlemen throughout the North American West.[15][16] During this period, men’s jeans had the fly down the front, whereas women’s jeans had the fly down the left side.[17] When Levi Strauss & Co. patented the modern, mass-produced prototype in 1873, there were two pockets in the front and a patch pocket on the back right reinforced with copper rivets.[11] The small riveted watch pocket was first added by Levi Strauss to their jeans in the late 1870s.[18]

    20th century evolution

    [edit]

    In 1901, Levi Strauss added the back left pocket to their 501 model.[19] This created the now familiar and industry-standard five-pocket configuration with two large pockets and small watch pocket in front with two pockets on the rear.

    The popularity of “waist overalls”, as jeans were sometimes called, expanded during World War II.[20] By the 1960s, both men’s and women’s jeans had the zipper down the front. Historic photographs indicate that in the decades before they became a staple of fashion, jeans generally fit quite loosely, much like a pair of bib overalls without the bib. Indeed, until 1960, Levi Strauss called its flagship product “waist overalls” rather than “jeans”.

    After James Dean popularized them in the movie Rebel Without a Cause, wearing jeans became a symbol of youth rebellion during the 1950s.[21][22] During the 1960s, the wearing of jeans became more acceptable, and by the 1970s it had become general fashion in the United States for casual wear.[23] In Japan in 1977, a professor of Osaka University Philip Karl Pehda chastised a female student wearing jeans in the classroom. Then he was protested by the students, and a controversy arose in the country.[24][25]

    Examples of intentional denim distressing strictly to make them more fashionable can be seen as early as 1935 in Vogue’s June issue.[26] Michael Belluomo, editor of Sportswear International Magazine, Oct/Nov 1987, p. 45, wrote that in 1965, Limbo, a boutique in the New York East Village, was “the first retailer to wash a new pair of jeans to get a used, worn effect, and the idea became a hit.” He continued, “[Limbo] hired East Village artists to embellish the jeans with patches, decals, and other touches, and sold them for $200.” In the early 1980s the denim industry introduced the stone-washing technique developed by GWG also known as “Great Western Garment Co.” Donald Freeland of Edmonton, Alberta, pioneered the method,[27] which helped to bring denim to a larger and more versatile market. Acceptance of jeans continued through the 1980s and 1990s. Originally a utilitarian garment, jeans became a common fashion choice in the second half of the 20th century.[28]

    In the early 21st century, Details Men’s Style Manual devoted a chapter to jeans, saying, “Now that jeans have become more acceptable cocktail-hour attire, you should probably own more than one pair.” Calling Levi’s 501s “an icon from the moment they were introduced,” and “the quintessential pair of jeans,” the guidebook calls the standard straight leg design, “a classic clean-cut American Graffiti look.”[29]

    Manufacturing processes

    [edit]

    Dyeing

    [edit]

    See also: Azo dye

    Chemical structure of indigo dye, the blue of blue jeans

    Traditionally,[vague] jeans were dyed to a blue color using natural indigo dye. Most denim is now dyed using synthetic indigo. Approximately 20 thousand tons of indigo are produced annually for this purpose, though only a few grams of the dye are required for each pair.[30] For other colors of denim other dyes must be used. Currently, jeans are produced in any color that can be achieved with cotton.

    For more information on dyeing, refer to denim and the discussion there of using pigment dyes.

    Pre-shrinking

    [edit]

    Crowd of people wearing a variety of jean styles, including carpenter jeansbootcut jeansdrainpipe jeans and lowrise jeans (Rome, 2008)

    In 1962, Levi Strauss introduced their own pre-shrunk jeans (Lee and Wrangler jeans had already long been pre-shrunk); these did not shrink further after purchase, allowing the consumer to purchase a correctly fitting size. Pre-shrink is common in jeans nowadays.[31] These jeans were known as the 505 regular fit jeans. The 505s are almost identical to the 501s with the exception of the button-fly. The Levi’s Corporation also introduced a slim boot-cut fit known as 517 and 527. The difference between the two is that the 517s sit at the waist line and the 527s sit below the waist line. Later, Levi’s would develop other styles and fits such as the loose, slim, comfort, relaxed, skinny, and a regular fit with a tapered leg.

    Used and distressed looks

    [edit]

    Ronald Reagan wearing stonewash denim associated with Western clothing, 1970s

    A significant amount of the aesthetic treatment of jeans may occur after the denim has been cut and sewn into the final garment. Many denim articles are washed to make them softer and to reduce or minimize shrinkage even beyond what sanforization prevents. Significantly washed denim can resemble dry denim which has faded naturally over extended use. Such distressing may be supplemented by chemical treatments or physical techniques such as stone washing.

    The used or “acid wash” look is created by means of abrading the jeans or treating them with chemicals, such as acryl resin, phenol, a hypochlorite, potassium permanganate, caustic soda, acids etc.[32]

    Ripping or distressing of jeans, though also arising naturally as a result of wear and tear, is sometimes deliberately performed by suppliers—with distressed clothing sometimes selling for more than a nondistressed pair. For example, Pucci sold “embellished mid-rise boyfriend jeans” for £600 (US$860).[33]

    Changes in appearance due to use

    [edit]

    Over time dry denim will fade, which is considered fashionable in some circumstances. During the process of wear, fading will usually occur on those parts of the article that receive the most stress. On a pair of jeans, this includes the upper thighs, the ankles, and the areas behind the knees. Patterns of fading in jeans caused by prolonged periods of wear include:

    • honeycombs – meshes of faded line-segments that form behind the knees
    • whiskers – faded streaks that form radially from the crotch area
    • stacks – irregular bands of fading above the ankle caused by accordioning of the fabric due to contact with the foot or shoe[34]
    • train tracks – fading along the out-seams due to abrasion[34]
    • Denim fibers from an old pair of jeans through a microscope
    • Natural fading on a worn pair of selvedge jeans. Such patterns are sometimes referred to as ‘whiskers’ or ‘honeycombs’.
    Distressed jeans

    [edit]

    Ripped jeans were worn by singer Leigh Jones in this promotional photo.

    Distressed denim emerged from the cultural punk movement in the 1970s. Early punks tore apart consumer goods as an expression of their anger towards capitalism and corporate greed.

    Punks used safety pins in garments to encourage the youth to not buy endless, meaningless fashion, and thus fund corporations. Clothes manufacturers gentrified the notion by selling clothes with safety pins already in them, so the original meaning of punk was lost. [35] Denim became a key target of this politically fueled deconstruction, with both men and women donning torn pants and jackets, accessorized with safety pins and slogans.

    The trend became popular again in the 1990s with the emergence of grunge fashion. The grunge youth wore loose-fitting ripped jeans, flannel shirts or woolen Pendletons layered over T-shirts. Their anti-conformist approach to fashion led to the popularization of the casual chic look, a trend which continued into the 2000s.

    Environmental and humanitarian impact

    [edit]

    A typical pair of blue jeans uses 3,479 litres (919 US gal) of water during its life cycle. This includes the water to irrigate the cotton crop, manufacture the jeans, and the numerous washes by the consumer.[36] During production, the typical amount for washing with traditional Pullman machines reaches 90 litres per jeans, which can be reduced to about 27 litres using modern frontloaders.[37] Novel washing processes such as Droptima can reduce that to 6 litres fresh water plus 4 litres used water.[37][38][39][40]

    The production of jeans with a “used look” can be more environmentally damaging than regular jeans, depending on how the waste compounds are processed. Sandblasting and treating with sandpaper has the risk of causing silicosis to the workers, and in Turkey, more than 5,000 textile workers have been stricken with this disease, and 46 people are known to have died. Some companies have announced they are banning the use of sandblasting.[41]

    Care and wear

    [edit]

    Despite most jeans being “pre-shrunk”, they are still sensitive to slight further shrinkage and loss of color from being washed. The Levi Strauss company recommends avoiding washing jeans as much as possible.[42] These and other suggestions to avoid washing jeans where possible have encountered criticism. Cory Warren, editor of LS&Co. Unzipped, clarifies in a response to such a criticism:

    Our advice is to wash less often, but clearly, you have to judge for yourself what’s appropriate. Hot day, dirty job? Wash your jeans. Please! Cold day, office job? Maybe you can wear them twice or more before they go back to the washing machine. Personally, if I wear a pair of jeans to work on Friday—cool climate, office job—I tend to wear them on Saturday. And if Saturday is spent indoors and I’m not spilling food all over myself, I might even wear them on Sunday.

    — Corey Warren[42]

    For those who prefer to refrain from washing their jeans there have been suggestions to freeze them in order to kill the germs that cause odor. However, this advice has been proven ineffective.[43]

    [edit]

    Italian rape trial

    [edit]

    In Rome, Italy, in 1992, a 45-year-old driving instructor was accused of rape. When he picked up an 18-year-old girl for her first driving lesson, he allegedly raped her for an hour, then told her that if she was to tell anyone he would kill her. Later that night she told her parents and her parents agreed to help her press charges. While the alleged rapist was convicted and sentenced, the Italian Supreme Court of Cassation overturned the conviction in 1998 because the victim wore tight jeans. It was argued that she must have necessarily had to help her attacker remove her jeans, thus making the act consensual (“because the victim wore very, very tight jeans, she had to help him remove them… and by removing the jeans… it was no longer rape but consensual sex”). The court stated in its decision “it is a fact of common experience that it is nearly impossible to slip off tight jeans even partly without the active collaboration of the person who is wearing them.”[44]

    The ruling sparked widespread feminist protest. The day after the decision, women in the Italian Parliament protested by wearing jeans and holding placards that read “Jeans: An Alibi for Rape”. As a sign of support, the California Senate and the California Assembly followed suit. Patricia Giggans, the executive director of the Los Angeles Commission on Assaults Against Women (now Peace Over Violence) soon made Denim Day an annual event. As of 2011 at least 20 U.S. states officially recognize Denim Day in April. Wearing jeans on that day has become an international symbol of protest against such attitudes about sexual assault. In 2008 the Supreme Court of Cassation overturned the ruling, so there is no longer a “denim” defense to the charge of rape.[45][44]

    Rokotov-Faibishenko case

    [edit]

    Main article: Rokotov-Faibishenko case

    In 1957, during the 6th World Festival of Youth and Students held in MoscowSoviet Union (present-day Russia), Western-made jeans were first introduced to the communist state and sparked “jeans fever” at the time. People preferred to wear Western-made blue jeans rather than local-made black ones. In Soviet ideology, such an action challenged communist-made jeans and symbolized Western victory. In 1961, two ringleaders, Y. T. Rokotov and V. P. Faibishenko, were caught with their group for smuggling currencies from other countries along with blue jeans and other contraband. Under the leadership of Nikita Khrushchev, the duo were executed.

    [edit]

    Worldwide market for jeans

    [edit]

    North America accounts for 39% of global purchases for jeans, followed by Western Europe at 20%, Japan and Korea at 10% and the rest of the world at 31%.[46]

    United States consumers spent more than US$14 billion on jeans in 2004 and US$15 billion in 2005.[11] US consumers bought US$13.8 billion of men’s and women’s jeans in the year that ended April 30, 2011 (~$18.4 billion in 2023), according to market-research firm NPD Group.[47]

    Soviet Union

    [edit]

    This section needs expansion. You can help by adding to it(July 2015)

    In the Soviet Union, jeans were the symbol of the Western way of life.[48] The “jeans fever” in the USSR started in 1957 during the World Festival of Youth and Students.[49] According to a 1961 Soviet textile dictionary, jeans were initially referred to as a “worker’s uniform” (рабочий костюм, rabochii kostyum).[50]

    The jeans brand Rokotov and Fainberg is named after the defendants in the Rokotov–Faibishenko case, Yan T. Rokotov and Vladislav P. Faibishenko, who were executed for, among other things, trafficking in jeans.[49]

    Although not outright banned, jeans were hard to come by in the Soviet Union since they were seen as a symbol of rebellion by the Soviet youth, who wanted to emulate the style of film and rock stars of the West. The Soviet government resisted supplying the market with jeans as it would mean responding to the market, a capitalist principle.[51] People went to great lengths, sometimes by resorting to violence and other illegal activities, to obtain real Western-made jeans. That led to the creation of black markets and to the bootlegging of jeans, which since has become an important cultural element of the history of the Soviet Union.[52]

    Market-share shift to activewear

    [edit]

    In 2014, teens were buying more fashion and athleisure clothing from brands such as Nike and Lululemon over denim classics from brands like Abercrombie & Fitch.[53] Activewear in 2014 comprised 28% of teens’ apparel purchases, up from 6% in 2008. In 2014, Nike, Lululemon, Under Armour, and Adidas were the most popular brands for athletic apparel among teen consumers. Fashion retailers have begun to adjust their offerings accordingly. Bloomberg reports that Levi’s stuck to its core product (denim) instead of adapting to consumer trends. As a result, Levi’s sales decreased from over US$7 billion to US$4.8 billion in 2015.[54]

    In February 2021, it was found that sales for athleisure had risen by 84% since March 2020 as a result of the COVID-19 lockdowns.[55]

    Variations on the basic type

    [edit]

    • Cigarette: Designed to fit quite closely, but not tightly, to the thigh area, with a less close fit to the calf[56]
    • Cropped: Where the leg is cut to a lesser length, to somewhere above the ankle[56]
    • Relaxed[56]
    • Skinny: Worn to flatter the figure in the fashion of tight or close fitting[56]
    • Wide-leg; or with cropped variant: The waist line rides up past the wearer’s actual waist, material below the knee is altogether away from the leg and descends as a straight line, standard type descends down to the ankle; cropped variant: the leg ceases at the lower leg mid-way down (or stops further down toward the ankle)[56]
    • Mom/Mum: Jeans which have a high waist (above the belly button), and are loose around the thighs, with a somewhat tapered fit.[57]
    • Straight-leg: Jeans which are the same width at the leg opening as they are at the bottom of the leg, making for a slightly baggy fit.[58]
    • Boyfriend: Often with a mid-low waist, boyfriend jeans have a baggy, “borrowed from the boys” fit.[57]
    • Flared, or bell-bottomed: Often fitted around the thigh area, then become wider from the knee down.[59]
    • High-waisted jeans were first popularized in the 1970s, but they have seen a resurgence in popularity in recent years. High-waisted jeans are characterized by a high rise that sits above the belly button. They can be fitted, relaxed, or loose-fitting, and they come in a variety of washes and colors.[60]

    Low-rise jeans

    [edit]

    Media reported in 2017 that the trend of low-rise jeans, famous in the 1990s and 2000s, was coming back into fashion due to a sparked by an interest in Y2K style.

    In the early 2000s, low-rise jeans were commonly seen on celebrities such as Jennifer LopezParis HiltonGwen Stefani and Christina Aguilera, attributing to the Y2K style. In 2021, online searches for ‘y2k fashion’ had risen by 193%,[61] showing that the fashion style was making a comeback, and low-rise jeans were becoming a common clothing item for teenagers and young adults.[62][63][64]

    Low-rise jeans usually come 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) or more below the navel.[65] Manufactured low-rise jeans have a shorter rise (distance between the waistband and crotch seam). The low-rise look can also be accomplished by letting jeans with longer rises fall lower than they are meant to. This is a less extreme version of sagging, which was popularized by male hip-hop artists in the 1990s.

    Industrial production

    [edit]

    • How denim fabric is stored in the factory
    • Automated cutting machines are used in RMG factory to cut the pieces.
    • P P Spray and P P Sponging being applied to jeans to give them a new look
    • Adding 3D crunching, whiskers, and wrinkles to jeans to make them look more used
    • Applying permanent wrinkles to jeans
    • Hand scraping of jeans
    • Resin treatment process on jeans
    • Tacking on jeans, which adds strength to high-stress areas
    • Socks dyeing machine in a washing plant for washing jeans
    • The process of washing and drying jeans
    • The final steps of preparing jeans for market
    • Checking the fit on a live model
    • Quality checking and quality assurance
    • Jeans are displayed for the buyer in the RMG factory showroom.